Alaska Week 5

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Sunday, June 8, 2003

Ok, we have had enough of Homer and Homer Spit, a really great place to visit, but its time to move on. Intentions today are to go to Soldotna, and spend the nite on the Fred Meyers parking lot. This store is huge, and it is in most of the bigger towns in Alaska. Its kinda like a Wal-Mart Super Center with a great grocery area, and all kinds of other stuff. They have a designated area for RV's to park, and even provide a free dump station and free water fill-up.

We arrived at the store about 9:30 am, and parked out of the way in a designated area. Donna & Lena went to do a little grocery shopping and I took a nap. About 11:30 we headed on up the peninsula to the little port town of Kenai, a 200 year old town founded by Russians in 1803 as a fishing center. Not long after the US bought Alaska, like 8 months later, oil was discovered in this area.

After visiting their great Visitor Center and Museum, and getting advice, we drove around the old town. One highlight was the Russian Christian Church. The church was founded in 1803 and the current building was built in 1846.

Just as we left Kenai, we spotted a Cow Moose in some underbrush on the side of the road. We stopped and quickly realized that she also had two new-borns with her. We then drove on farther up the peninsula, past about a half dozen oil refineries and chemical plants, to the end of the road where Captain Cook State Park is located. A very nice place with huge bluffs overlooking Cook Inlet.

Then back through Kenai and across some tidal flats for a different route back to Soldotna. In the tidal flats, and while crossing the Kenai river, we spotted some birds way out on the flat. They kinda looked like turkeys, even with binoculars, but we finally decided they were some sort of crane.

We then spotted a herd of Caribou grazing in the flatland, about 20 in all, including 2 babies. As we got back into town, we toured through a campground owned by the city, Centennial Park, one of two they own. It was basically a no hookup park, but right on the Kenai River. They had constructed a lot of walk-ways and stairs down to the river, and several folks were on the river fishing for Salmon.

We then returned to the Fred Meyers store, and after discussing it a while, since it was only 4pm, we decided to continue on to a Forest Service Campground about 45 miles on farther toward Seward. That would put us only about 50 miles from Seward.

That's where we are right now, near Cooper's Landing, in Cooper's Park. Again, we got a double site, for the price of one, and at the discount rate for Mac's Golden Age Card. No hookups, but a very nice site, with a large table, and a fire pit. We had us a nice little fire to play 42 next to.

Oh, by the way, the Men beat the Ladies again, 2-1, and Donna got the Widow!!

Monday, June 9, 2003

We only had about 50 miles to go today, were in no hurry, but still left about 7:15. Nice drive into Seward, mostly along the Kenai River, and then along the Snow River. We went over the pass leading into Seward, and then right into Seward. First stop was the Free City RV Dump Station to empty the holding tanks and take on fresh water.

The City owns several campgrounds right on the water, and we easily found a place facing the Bay, and looking right at the Harbor and the cruise ship that happened to be in port, the Dawn Princess.

Immediately after we got set up, Donna went to the Laundromat, came back and told me she spent $14.00, the dryers were 25 cents for four minutes. We then rounded up and drove to the two parts of town where the shops are located. First, to the new part, next to the Harbor, and not too far from the cruise ship. Even though the ship was in port, there were not that many folks in the shops. We then went to the old part of town, which was about a mile away but on the same street. The main part was on the side of the hill that went down to the Old Harbor.

The old harbor was hit by a tsunami after the 1964 Earthquake that was centered around Anchorage. Seward was hit with 30 foot waves, one after another, that totally destroyed the old harbor. The town itself was spared because of being on a hill. Many of the old buildings are still standing and are still in use today. One, in fact, is still owned by the same family.

We then came back to camp, ate a bite of lunch and headed out to Exit Glacier. This little trip turned into a real exciting time. First we saw a moose in the brush along the river. Then, as we entered the path going to view the glacier close up, folks coming back were telling us of a bear sighting a little way down the trail. As we got to a group of folks, a young lady Park Ranger pointed out the bear cub about 30 feet up in a tree, asleep laying across several limbs. And, about 15 feet below the cub, was the mother, a large black bear!!

We walked on down to the end of the paved trail, which afforded a great view of the glacier. Lena and Donna went on farther down the gravel path another 1/2 mile to get really up close and personal. Mac and I went back to where the bears were, but they had just left. Fortunately for us, the young lady Park Ranger was still there, to fend off any bear attacks that Mac and I might be subjected to. Of course, we both enjoyed getting acquainted with the young lady, who is going to college studying environmental sciences.

Then back to town, and watched the train come in, bringing many of the cruise folks back to the boat. Back in camp, we started a fire, and then it was time for the 42 game. Mac and I sure must have had all our signals crossed tonite, because the ladies won 3-0, and none of the games were close. Oh, and Lena got the Widow!!

Later Donna and I sat out by the fire, and just watched the boats coming and going, watched a sea otter feeding, then watched two other sea otter either fighting or mating (really not sure which). LOL It was really pretty cold out, even with the fire going.

We stayed out until about 10pm and watched the cruise ship leave port (wonder where they were going).

I found an internet place today, and tomorrow morning will go publish this and previous unpublished parts.

Tuesday, June 10, 2003

We hung around Seward this morning, and while I worked on the internet getting the web site up to date, Donna went to the Sea Life Center. They had lots of sea life, mostly being re-habilitated and really enjoyed. Mac and Lena kinda hung around the truck parked in Old Town, and maybe checked out a couple of shops, at least I think Lena did.

We also did a little more sight-seeing in the area, but no wildlife. Then back into the New Town, and I bought a couple of things at the big hardware store. I needed some ear muffs and gloves. It got pretty cold last night as Donna and I stayed outside pretty late, so I figured I might get ready for the next time we have the opportunity to have a fire. I already have a nice warm vest and a really nice warm pull-over sweat shirt. Now I am ready for almost anything.

We left Seward about 12:15 and made the drive back into Anchorage in a little over 3 hours. Not bad time for 130 miles, and stopping for lunch. We were actually back-tracking, so we had seen the scenery, and it started to drizzle right after we left Seward.

In Anchorage, we tried to get into the Wal-Mart parking lot, but was too many cars and too tight, so we pulled across the street to a closed up K-Mart lot, intending to park there for the nite. But, there were warnings against parking so we decided to check out a couple of free or low-cost lots that supposedly were available near downtown and near the Alaska Railroad Depot. But that didn't work either, so we went on to the Anchorage RV Park, the premier place in Anchorage.

It's kinda expensive, but the services available are great. We have the normal full hookups, Electricity, Water, and Sewer, but we also have Cable TV and Telephone Service. So, while we are here we will have full access to the internet. I might mention that Full Hookups are really not the normal thing in Alaska. Most private parks offer on Electricity and Water, and have a central dump station to dump the holding tanks.

We have found that the Forest Service campgrounds, although they have NO hookups at all, are very nice, have lots of space between sites, and allow fires in their fire rings.

After the 42 game tonight, Donna and I went to the Wal-Mart to drop off the 18 rolls of 35mm film that I have taken so far. May have to take out a loan. LOL

Oh yeah.. Mac and I got our revenge tonite. 3-0. We really gave them a bad beating as they only got 2 points in three games. Donna got the Widow.

Wednesday, June 11, 2003

Today we are in Anchorage and just seeing the sights. We first of all headed downtown to do the typical tourist things. We visited lots of interesting shops and galleries, and took a Trolley Ride to see some of the typical locations. Donna and I had lunch at Rum Runners, a TGIF type place, sat in their sidewalk seating and listened to the band playing in the little park across the street. The tourist bureau provides a band on Wednesday & Saturday.

Mac and Lena went to another little eatery in the same area and had burgers that they said were very good.

We went in some very fine shops, including a furrier with some really great fur coats, hats, and other accessories. We also browsed in The Alaska Mint, where they mint gold and silver medallions, in addition to all the other gold and silver jewelery items that they design and make. Their medallions change each year, with a new design, created in a competition among Alaskan Artists.

After visiting downtown we drove over to the Ulu Factory where the Ulu knives are made. They were in the process of moving to their new location, so we weren't able to view much of the manufacturing process.

Then we headed out toward the airport, to go to a dealer for Onan generators. Mac needed an oil filter to change the oil in his generator. As it turned out, we need to go to a different location back close to downtown. However, while we were in the area, we visited Hood Lake, a base for hundred of planes with pontoons, and even got to see several landing and taking off.

Donna and I then went to Sam's Wholesale to get more film, then to Wal-Mart to pick up the 35mm prints and to get some medical prescriptions filled, which turned out to be a breeze.

About 10 pm ( it looked like 7pm in Texas), Donna and I had dinner at a nice restaurant on the upper level overlooking the Inlet and watched the sun settle behind the mountains. Our server was a really neat young lady, a student at University of Alaska, that was born and raised in Alaska, but whose family lives in Texas.

Oh, I know you are waiting to here the 42 score today! The ladies won 3-2 tonite, and Lena got the Widow.

Thursday, June 12, 2003

Today was again a sight-seeing day. We first went to The Wild Berry Farm factory where they make the candies and jellies that are sold throughout the state. They have a Chocolate Waterfall, which is unbelievable. And the hanging baskets outside were fabulous. Then to the Alaska Fur Exchange to see literally hundreds of fur pelts available for sale, and lots of collectible items from Alaska's past.

Then downtown to the Musk Ox Co-op where they sell items made by over 250 weavers. All products are made from the Musk ox hair, that is warmer by weight than wool. Its also very expensive, $150 for a small headband /ear muff.

We then we to the Alaska Experience Theater for a rendition about the 1964 earthquake, including the shaking chairs. It was not all that unique, and barely worth the $11 admission for Donna and I.

After having a hamburger at Hamburger Jim's in the Anchorage Transit Center, we drove around a bit more, then back to the coach for a much needed nap. These late nights watching the sunset at 11pm and getting up a 7am is taking a toll on my beauty rest.

After the nap, we played our regular 42 game, with the men winning by 2-1 and Mac got the Widow.

We then drove out to the airport area to watch the float planes taking off and landing at Lake Hood. We all really enjoyed that activity. Then we drove to Kincaid Park, also near the airport to see one of the many parks maintained by the City of Anchorage.

After a quick trip by Wal-Mart for a Lena to pick up a few essentials, we were back at the coach, for a dinner of pancakes and bacon and sausage. Right now is 12:15, we are still up getting the coach ready to travel, watching Fox News Channel, and catching up on the news in Lufkin on the Lufkin Daily News web site. We will finish unhooking in the morning, and go to the Cummings dealer for and Lube Job and Oil Change, then on toward Valdez, although we may not get that far tomorrow.

I will publish this update tonite, while I still have internet, as soon as Donna proof reads it and corrects all my mistakes.

Friday, June 13, 2003

Happy Friday the 13th everybody! Hope no one had any bad luck. We came through it ok, at least up to now. However, its still a couple of hours till midnight here, and there is an active volcano about 15 miles away, and we are 3 miles from the epicenter of the last major earthquake in Alaska - measuring 9.2 on the Richter scale - occurring just a couple of months ago.

We left the campground a little after 7 this morning for an appointment at 8am with the Cummins Northwest Dealership for a Lube and Oil/Filter Change. I was really concerned about the air filter, but it actually was in pretty good shape, but I changed it anyway. Like so many other folks we have met in Alaska, these folks were extremely nice and accommodating. Actually, they were very busy, and the General Manager did the work on our coach. Thanks John!

From there we headed up the Glenn Highway to Palmer, and just after passing through Palmer we stopped at a Musk Ox Farm, where the 'down' for the items I mentioned yesterday is harvested. Was a very interesting stop. One coincidence was the Susan Butcher had worked there at one time, her picture was in their little presentation room. She looked to be about 18 - 20 years old at the time the picture was taken. Guess she liked dog-sledding better - remember, she won the Iditarod 4 times.

The highway began to get smaller and more curvy as we continued on toward Glennallen, where the intersection with the road to Valdez is located. We crossed some pretty high mountain passes on some really very narrow roads. And at one point we were in a construction area of about 10 miles, and that was really rough.

We try to travel at a safe speed, and sometimes we get local traffic stacked up behind us. The courteous thing to do is pull over at a pull-out to let them pass - it's also the LAW! So, we do pull over quite frequently, and today as we pulled into a pull out on the side of a mountain, there was a truck near the end where we were pulling in. As we went by, Donna said; "Hey, there's a boat in the woods on the hillside". We got stopped, then walked back, and sure enough, the guy's trailer tongue had actually just broken, and the boat and trailer hit the woods.

He asked if we had a throw-away camera, which we didn't, but we took several digital pics, which we will mail to him as soon as possible.

We are now in Glennallen, at Northern Nights campground, a pretty nice place that usually fills up every nite. Tonite the Owners served home-made Boysenberry Cobbler and Peach Cobbler with Ice Cream, which was quite a treat. The lady then gave an extension talk on what to see and do on the way to, and while we are at, Valdez.

The Ladies won the 42 game tonite, by a score of 2-1. We also played a game of straight dominoes, which the ladies also won handily. And, Mac got the widow tonite.

Saturday, June 14, 2003

Got up to a slight drizzle this morning, and headed south on the Richardson Highway to Valdez. Before long the slight drizzle turned into a slight rain, not too bad, just kept the windshield wet. We had hoped to get better views of the nearby mountains and the active volcano, was too many clouds.

The scenery was really great, however, mostly national forests, lots of creeks and rivers. We even saw two moose pairs ( cow and calf). We even had a close up look at another glacier, and a great view of Bridal Veil Falls and two other falls right beside it.

We crossed over Thompson Pass, and had a 7 1/2 % grade for the next 8 or 10 miles, although it just did not seem that steep. The entire highway from Glennallen was one of the best we have been on, good pavement, very few humps or dips, and in general in very good shape. Upon arriving in Valdez, we checked in at the Eagle's Nest RV park, a little tight but fairly nice and convenient.

Donna and I 'think' that this is the place that our friends, Mike and Ruth Wiley, had a grocery store back in the 70's or early 80's. We will find out next time we see them.

We all drove around and looked at the sights. Got as close to the Pipeline Terminal as possible, checked out the harbor, visited a little museum about 'Old Valdez', the one that was destroyed by the quake in 1964, checked out the ferry terminal, and drove around the residential area. We then all went back to the park and took a 2 hour nap - we're on vacation, remember?

Donna and I later went and talked to the lady whose husband has the tour boat, The Lu Lu Belle, and have decided we will take a cruise tomorrow to visit Columbia Glacier and hopefully see a lot of sea life, including whales. We then went to dinner at the Pipeline Inn, a nice restaurant, and fairly reasonably priced.