Alaska Week 3

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Sunday, May 25, 2003

Well, we are still pretty much on the same schedule for getting up and getting on the road. Again this morning we were ready to roll by 7am. Within an hour we were beginning to get into Caribou country and sure enough, was not long until we started spotting them.

Right after passing through Fort Nelson, we got into some road construction. We had to wait quite a while for the Pilot Car, then was about 5 miles of wet dirt, which really did a number on the coach and truck. Talk about dirty, we got it! Even thought it was Sunday, they had a crew there working - 2 flagmen, Pilot Car Operator, and packing machine. And, 8 guys standing around talking!

At little further down the road, we stopped for a break at the pull-out at Kledo Creek where Donna found some bear tracks.  She called her mother over to look, and as Lena was getting a close look, Donna yelled "Oh, My God !!" I thought Lena was gonna climb on top of the truck!! LOL

As we headed down one of the mountains that we climbed today, Donna and I spotted a bear on the left side, down a hill behind the concrete barrier. We couldn't stop, but told Mac and Lena on the FRS. They pulled over on the right shoulder, got out of the truck, walked across the road, and leaned over the barrier to watch and video the bear.  Mac told me later that the bear really paid no attention to them, and didn't even look up.  So Mac threw a rock and a bolt at him, still paid them no mind.

On further we stopped at a little store and park area, where they had some "home made" Cinnamon Buns, the Tetsa River Ranch. The lady working there was extremely helpful, and gave us lots of advice on things to do over the next couple of hundred miles. She also gave us some good advice about staying away from bears.  She told us that a Black Bear can reach 35 mph in 10 feet, less that 2 seconds.  I guess Mac and Lena were pretty lucky that the bear ignored the rock and bolt that Mac was throwing. LOL

The lady also showed us a video on her personal video camera, that she had taken the day before.  Some wolves had killed a horse right there at the ranch, and a Grizzly Mother and her 2 yr old cub were devouring it!  She said she really took more of a chance than she should have, just being close enough to video.

A little after 1pm we stopped at a pull-out next to Summitt Lake for a bite of lunch, a really pretty lake, that was still mostly frozen. Next we stopped at Toad River Lodge, a lodge, store, cafe and gas station where they had exactly 6150 caps nailed to the ceiling.

Right about 4pm we reached the Liard River and crossed it on the last original suspension bridge left on the Alaska Highway.  As we climbed the hill to Liard Hot Springs Provincial park, we spotted two buffalo grazing on the side of the road.  As we parked in the park, the guys across the drive from us told us that 3 buffalo had been in the park this morning, and two of them were fighting.

As soon as we got set up, we took about a 1/2 mile walk to the hot springs, all on a board walk through a marshy area.  Really pretty area, with lots of folks enjoying the 108 degree water, even though it smelled strongly of sulphur.

We returned to the camp, and started our daily game of 42.  Ladies won again - 3-2.  Donna got stuck with the Widow.  While we were playing, the campground host came by to collect the camping fee, and told us about his tempermental dog, part German Shepherd and part Wolf.  He said she doesn't like for him to get out of sight, or she gets upset and starts chewing up things, like the seat belts in the truck.  He also said she won't eat dog food, but only steaks that he cooks for her.  At that statement, Mac asked if he would like to adopt another dog and said "My name is Rover".  Everybody really got a laugh outta that.

After we finished the 42 games, we drove out to the main highway to see if we could find any wildlife.  We had not gone 2 miles, when we spotted a Black Bear grazing on the side of the highway.  For probably 15 or 20 minutes we watched, took still pictures and video.

Then back to the coach, dropped Mac and Lena off, and Donna and I went to the Lodge across the highway for a coke and coffee. Of course, we went looking again, but didn't find any more bear.  However, the 2 Buffalo that we spotted when we arrived had been joined by a third, and there was a crowd of 12 to 15 people standing on the side of the road, watching them graze.

Today has been a great day for spotting wildlife.  In addition ,what I mentioned above, we spotted lots of caribou, elk, moose, a few bears, some other buffalo, and saw lots of signs of wildlife.

It's now nearly 11pm and as I look out the window, it is just now getting dusky dark.  Donna is already asleep and I am about to head that way.

Our plans for tomorrow are to go to Watson Lake where the Sign Post Forest is located (over 42,000 signs from all over the world) and then on to Mukluk Annie's , where they have free camping for customers.

Monday, May 26, 2003 Memorial Day

Happy Memorial Day to everybody, particularily Cathy, Diana, Mike, and Callie back at the office. Bet you guys deserve a holiday today.  We left the campground and pulled across the highway to hook up the truck, and I nearly knocked Donna out by hitting her in the head with the tow bar.

After leaving Liard Hot Springs the drive was just about all forest, as its been for the last couple of days.  We may go 50 miles and never see a house or any sign of human life.  On the way to Watson Lake we spotted about a 1/2 dozen bears along the side of the road, and took a few pictures and some video.

At one point I got out of the coach to take some picture of a bear on the side of the road.  Lena decided that would be a good time to sneak up behind me and 'goose' me.  It did kinda startle me, but not too bad.  I got back in the coach, ready to leave, when Donna discovered that I had not locked the door.  She was very quick to point that out to me, but I reminded her that it was no problem, that the bear had a key anyway.

As I write this part, about 10:30 am, have just arrived in Watson Lake, have stopped along the side of the highway, and Donna is cooking breakfast of sausage, biscuit, and gravy.

Right now we are in Teslin, Yukon and have found an internet connection that they say will work.. gonna publish this but will complete today's later.

Hello to Austin and Courtney from Kpoppa & Nonna

Ok, we are back from the Red Wolf Computer Service location, and we did get to publish.  I was not able to get an AOL connection, but they did have a DSL connection which allowed me to connect to MSN browser and publish the changes to the site.  Was not able to get to my email on AOL or other address, so that will have to wait.

Now back to the remainder of the trip today. After we had the little quick breakfast, we drove another block on down the street to the Sign Post Forest. Supposedly there are over 52,000 signs there placed by folks from all over the world, including Texas.  Mac even signed all our names on part of someone else's sign (they were from Texas, too).

On the way from Watson Lake, YK to Teslin, YK we did see a couple of Reindeer, our first.  Hopefully we will see more since we didn't get a picture of them.

We stopped for a visit at Walker's Continental Divide, an all-service stopping point where we again crossed the continental divide. Mac, still convinced that bears are of no danger, asked the lady: "Bears up here aren't really all that bad, are they?" Her reply; "Bears will be Bears" (Still don't think he is convinced.. LOL)

I might point out that the lady back at the Testa River Ranch (the one that had the video of the Grizzly eating the horse), had told us a story about a Grizzly that entered through the automatic doors of the Holiday Inn in Anchorage.  He went all the way to the third floor, ripping up everything in his path.  He TOTALLY destroyed the kitchen!!

We ate out tonite here at Mukluk Annie's and had some really great hamburgers.  We all enjoyed getting to know the cook and waitresses, all students, working a summer job.  This place is about 6 miles outside Teslin, YK and has free RV parking (no hook-ups). Plus, with dinner you get a free boat ride on the lake and a free RV wash (if you do the washing yourself).

We have been looking for some firewood to buy, so that we can have a little cozy fire at night.  The folks at Mukluk Annie's suggested we just pick up some driftwood along the lake.  Since that seemed more like work than anything else, Donna and I looked for some for sale in Teslin when we went for the internet hook-up.  Failing there, we drove on down the road from where we are camped at Mukluk Annies, found a Provincial Park with FREE firewood and helped ourselves, since there was no one around.

There was no 42 game tonite, since Donna and I went back into town to connect to the interet.  I guess we will resume tomorrow nite, or soon anyway.

Right now its about 11:00pm and so light outside that I could read a newspaper, as along as I had my glasses on. LOL

Tuesday, May 27, 2003

We had breakfast at Mukluk Annie's, an all you can eat buffet with homemade pancakes, plain or blueberry.  Hit the road about 8:15 and arrived in Whitehorse about 11:15.  No wildlife activity at all this am.  After checking in at the High Country RV Park, we went to the downtown area, did some money changing at the bank, browsed in a few shops.  Mac got a haircut, paying about 3 times what he normally pays. LOL

Donna and I got tickets to the Frantic Follies for tonite, but Mac and Lena declined to go to the 1898's type show. Donna and Lena went to Wal-Mart, which they said was a very different experience.  Looked like Wal-Mart on the outside, but inside was very different from what we are accustomed to.  Donna did some laundry in the laundermat here at the campground, and I set up a connection to AOL that actually worked.  I was able to check email, and even answer a few.

We played 42 again, and this time the Guys won 2-1. Lena got stuck with the Widow.

Donna and I later went to the Frantic Follies, which was a lot of fun.  We sat on front row, and Donna & I both got picked on a LOT. Everybody there is NOW sure familiar with Lufkin, Texas.  Now it's 11:30, sun is behind the mountains, but not dark yet.  Just kinda dusky.

Wednesday, May 28, 2003

Today was mostly a travel day. We were up and gone from Whitehorse by a little after 7am. A few miles north of Whitehorse we left the Alaska Highway and turned directly north toward Dawson Creek, YK on the Klondike Highway.  A little over an hour later, we arrived at Braeburn Lodge, famous for their Cinnamon Buns.  Biggest things you have ever seen!  They were as big as a regular dinner plate.  Donna and I shared part of one, and saved the rest for later.

A portion of today's drive was through and area that had a fire in 1998.  Totally scorched for 30 to 40 miles, was unbelieveable. This road is without a doubt the worst we have been on so far.  Lots of pot holes, lots of dips in the road, some very narrow areas with steep drop offs.  One of the construction areas, about 2.5 miles, was wet and muddy, and pilot car led us through at 15 mph.

After checking in, we all drove downtown to check the sights and things we would like to do tomorrow.  We also checked out the ferry that crosses the Yukon to get us to the Top Of The World Highway.  Small ferry by most standards, but can handle even the largest 18 - wheeler.  Mac and Lena even took a 'joy ride' to the other side an back.

We had dinner at a Restaurant next to the Campground, then Donna and I went back downtown to go to the Diamond Tooth Gertie Show at the little Casino owned by the Tourist Bureau.  Interesting show, only 30 minutes, and only performers were the lead singer and the 4 Can-Can Dancers.  But was very much fun.  They have 3 different shows a night, so Donna and I plan to go back tomorrow nite and see the other two.

One nice thing about this campground is that they have a High Speed Wireless Network so I am able to just sit in the coach and connect to their network.  The connection is just fair and is sometime low Signal Strength, but its fast most of the time.  We are not above the Artic Circle, but it seems as if every thing in the world is South of us.  It's really weird when the sun comes up in the north north-east about 2am and set in the North north-west about 12 pm.

More about Dawson City tomorrow.

Thursday, May 29, 2003

We slept in pretty late this morning, was after 9 before we really took off to see some sights.  First went to the Visitor's Center for information on the town and sights.  Then some browsing in the stores, and a stop at a little coffee/pastry shop.  We walked the grounds of the Commissioner's House, a beautiful old restored home right on Front Street facing the Yukon River.

There are two rives here, the Klondike runs into the Yukon, right on the south end of town.  The ferry is the only way across for the folks living on the other side of the river, and of course the river freezes each year.  For about 4 to 6 weeks, while the river is not solid ice, there is no way to cross.  Once the river is frozen solid, folks just drive or walk across the ice.  Donna said she would just have to stay on her side. lol

We later drove up Hunder Road along a creek that produced a lot of gold back in the boom days.  Still some mining going on.  We visited with a lady at one of the mines that offers tours and panning.  Very interesting visit.  She has been here a long time, and her son now works the claims, which numbers over 70 claims.  A typical claim is about 500 along the creek and 1000 wide (500 on each side).

Then we went back to the coach for a short rest, and took off up Bonanza Creek Road, where the Discovery Claim was located.  This was Claim Number 1 and was the first discovery of gold in 1898.

On further up the road is Dredge No. 4, one of the massive dredging machine that is being restored by the Park Department.  We then stopped at Claim 33, a really nice gift shop and panning place.  Donna and Lena talked to the lady for quite a while, and Mac visited with the young man that teaches panning.

On up the road a little further, is the location that the KVA, Klondike Visitors Association, has acquired for visitors to go and try their luck at panning.  We found about 10 folks there, most of them from a group (caravan) staying here at the park.  Amazingly, they were actually finding gold.  One young lady found 5 peices in one panning effort.  Another guy found a nugget about the size of a thumbnail, that was worth about $60, they said.

Tonite Donna and I went back into town, had dinner at Klondike Kates, took in the show at the Palace Grand.  The show was a musical comedy presentation of events that typically occured in the Gold Rush Days.  After that show we went to Diamond Tooth Gertie's again for the two Late Shows, both of which were different from the show we saw last nite.

Right now its about 1:30 am, kinda dusky dark outside, and looks like the sun will be rising in a short while.  We plan to leave tomorrow, crossing on the ferry to Top of The World Highway, headed for Chicken and Tok.

Friday, May 30, 2003

We left Dawson City this morning right about 7am, our normal hour of departure.  Considering it was 1:30 when we went to bed, and up a 6am, very little sleep last night.  We were first in line at the ferry and had only a short wait while it returned from the opposite side.  They put both rigs on at the same time, and had room for another vehicle, but no one else was in line.

The Top of the World Highway was paved to the Alaskan Border, although there were a lot of places where it was just gravel.  Very beautiful vista views of the mountains, although it was a little hazy.

We traveled the entire 67 miles without meeting one single vehicle. We realized that the reason was that the border crossing did not open until 9am Pacific Time. We met the first vehicle about 1/2 mile before the crossing at 9:01, but it was the only vehicle to cross.  So, after 15 days on the road, we are now in Alaska!!!

We stopped about 4 miles into Alaska at Boundary, Ak, at the only business there, The Boundary Lodge. The young man that owned the store said he had mined up until about 10 years ago, then got married, started a family, and bought this place.  He still mines some on the side. They home school their 4 kids, ages 4 to 10, get mail flown in once a week, and can order groceries to be flown in also. They stay there in the winter, and the weekly plane, if it can get there, is the only connection to the outside world.

From there to Chicken, Ak, another 40 miles or so, we never met another vehicle. That 40 miles of 'highway' was nothing but a dirt and gravel road, and very narrow in most places. Most of the time two vehicles would have a very difficult time just getting by each other.

We stopped in Chicken, visited the gift shop, and then visited the other little commercial area, which housed and emporium, liquor store, bar, and cafe.  Chicken is a pretty strange name for a town, and legend has it that the miners there wanted to name it for the bird that abounds in the area, the Ptarmigan.  Since they didn't know how to spell Ptarmigan, they just name it Chicken.  After about a mile outside Chicken, the road was paved again, even though there were stretches that were under repair.

We arrived in Tok, Ak about 1:30, in the middle of a little rain and lighting storm and went to a campground that I had seen and ad for, but was not up to standards, and only had 20amp service. So we checked out a couple of other places, and settled on the Tok RV Village, right on the Alaska Hiway, and very convenient to things around town.

We drove around town a bit, went to the visitor's center, got a lot of information, and then went to a little gift shop that a log structure with a sod roof. The lawn mower was still on the roof.

After a few more shopping stops we went back to the campgournd and listened to a fellow sing some Alaskan Ballads, most all written by him. He was quite good and did a great job of familiarizing us with Tok, and other parts of Alaska.

After his performance, we went to Fast Eddy's for dinner. Now I know that sounds like a fast food place, but was acutally a very nice and large restaurant.

Since it is pretty late, and we had some rough driving today, we are not playing 42. Right now I am in the recreation room hooked up to AOL.

Saturday, May 31, 2003

How else to start today's journal that to say that we left the park about the same time as we usually do.. 7am ! We drove across the street where Diesel was $1.499, when everywhere else in Tok was $1.599 to $1.649. I probably mentioned previously that we have paid as much as $2.19 US while we were in Canada.

Delta Junction, about a 100 miles north of Tok is the official end of the Alaskan Highway. We stopped at the Visitor's Center and all got our End of the Road Certificate that we had made it to the official end of the Alaska Highway.

Next stop was at Rika's Road House, an old turn of the century hotel located on the banks of the river where a ferry crossing was located. It is also the location of where the Alaskan Pipeline crosses the river on its way to Valdez.

From there the next stop was at North Pole Welcome Center, then across the street to Santa Land, and typical Christmas Store, with one little twist. It is actually located at North Pole, Ak. A huge gift shop, with a live Santa. Donna bought a couple of letters from Santa for Austin & Courtney, had them post marked from North Pole. They should receive them in a few days. I am sure Austin will be excited, and in a few years, I am sure Courtney will appreciate it, too.

The most exicting part of the stop at Santa Land that Mac and I found was "Hot Licks", a little ice cream shop located on the grounds of Santa Land. When we got there, it was my first stop and then I noticed a little later that Mac was walking around with one of their $6.50 Banana Splits. Now I have never known Mac to do a lot of 'splurging', so I kinda inquired about his apparent 'lapse of conservatism'. He quickly explained that the guy running the Hot Licks had insisted that he have one of the Banana Splits - FREE - and all Mac had to do was stand around the shop and brag on how good it was. Now, I am not saying that Mac was telling the truth, but there is NO question that he had a Banana Split... and ate the WHOLE THING !!!

Just a few miles up the road from North Pole, and a few miles before arriving in Fairbanks, we arrive at our destination, RiverView RV park, a really nice park, secluded, quiet, and they DO have internet service, which will allow me to publish this Journal either tonite or in the morning.

After getting set up in the park, we headed on in to Fairbanks to look around. First stop was to be the Fairbanks Ice Palace, and after circleing the block several times without finding the entrance sign, we asked a Bicycle Cop for help. It turns out that the show is not open yet, and they were re-modeling and carving the sculptures. Mac talked to the lady guarding the door, and we got a tour of the show, met one of the sculpturer, and had an very interesting visit.

We then visited the Wooden Bowl Factory, where Donna and Lena used coupons that we received when we checked in here to get a couple of free wooden bowl planters. They threw them in the back of the truck with my firewood. Hope I don't get confused next time we start a fire. LOL

Then over to Riverboat Discovery for a pre-view of the Paddle Wheeler that we plan to take a tour on tomorrow. They have a great gift shop, including a eskimo doll on display that was for sale for $16,000 (Sorry, Courtney).

We then headed back to the park, Donna and I grilled some pork chops and sausage, and then played 42. Mac and I won tonite by 2-1. Donna got the Widow.