Alaska Week 2

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Sunday, May 18, 2003

Another travel day today.  We left Goodland, Ks about 7am this morning and arrived in Casper, Wy about 5pm.  Found the Wal-Mart Super Center right off the interstate, and just parked right out by the street. Traveled 466 miles today.  Have about 800 to go to get to the Foretravel Service Center in Liberty Lake, Wa.

The planned route through Denver was to by-pass Denver on I-270, which was really a close-in loop, not all that far from the center of the city.  As we approached Denver we noticed that I-470, which is a long way out from Denver, would take us all the way to I-25N and completely by-pass Denver. This by-pass goes right by the HUGE new Denver airport.  We knew it was a Toll Road, but man what a TOLL.  Of course the first toll booth was about a mile after we got on it, and the toll for 4 axles was $5.25. Okay that's not too bad we figure.  We went through it ahead of Mac, and Lena told us he told the person in the booth that WE were supposed to have paid for him!!   He told her to Call the Cops!  Typical Mac!  So we are traveling along just fine, and 8 miles later anotherToll Booth and another $5.25!   Understand, we have traveled only 8 miles, and have shelled out $10.50.   Mac told this lady that she was trying to "Get All Of His Texas Money!!"   But, that's not the end of the Toll story.  Just 10 more miles, and guess what.. another toll booth.  Yep, another $5.25!!  This time Mac asked the lady, "You got any dishes I can wash??"  She replied, "No, but you can go to my house and wash the clothes!"  So the tolls were pretty high, but it probably saved 45 minutes to an hour of going through Denver and all the traffic, so guess it was worth it.

On up I-25, it was time for Mac to fuel up, so in Longmont we found a place that we could get in.  We had gotten fuel yesterday, so we didn't need fuel.  Mac and Lena paid $140 for a coke and a cup of coffee.  Of course the 100 gallons of diesel was FREE!  Was really kinda funny.. they got a free coke with a fill-up and Mac talked them out of free cup of coffee, too.  Right now its about 8:30 in Casper.  The wind is blowing about 30 to 40 miles an hour, its about 45 degrees outside, and there are heavy black clouds in all directions.  Since its Sunday nite, the Sam's Club next to Wal-Mart has been closed a couple hours, but Wal-Mart is still open, but not a lot of customers.  Oh, I almost forgot, Donna beat me at Phase 10 again tonite for the third time! 10 phases to 9 - 385 to 295 pts.  I haven't yet figured out if she just better than me or luckier that me. Stay Tuned.

Monday, May 19, 2003

Not a great deal of happenings today, mostly just picking 'em up and putting 'em down to get some miles under our belt.  We started this morning with 807 miles to go to get to the Foretravel Service Center.  We hoped to get at least 500 miles today, in order to have only 300 or so on Tuesday.  We actually did 496 today.  And, considering the mountains we were in, we felt really good about that.  It was 38 degrees in Casper, Wy this morning when we left about 6 am.  We were headed toward Sheridan, Wy on I-25.  We got to Sheridan about 8:20, and took a break at the Rest Stop for breakfast.  Just about the time we were ready to leave, the Electrical contractor from Guthrie, Ok. called to discuss the problem we had in the Guthrie RV park.   He was a super nice guy, and every bit as honest talking as the guys back at the park had told me.  We discussed the damage, he admitted his company was at fault, and we discussed how to handle getting paid for the damages.  He pointed out that he did have insurance, but would probably not want to file a claim, but rather just handle it himself.  At this point I believe he will handle everything without a problem.  We left the Rest Area about 9:00, and guess what.. about an hour & twenty minutes later it starts to sleet.  No big deal, lasted only about 5 minutes.  Then twenty minutes later.. SNOW.. for about 20 minutes.  And I mean blowing snow.. and lots of it.  From there on in to Billings where we fueled up, we went through several more rain and snow showers.  Then about 1pm, right around Livingston, Mt.. Snow again, but not as hard or as long as earlier.  We had several experiences today of long pulls up some pretty steep grades up, and of course down the other side.  Going up is basically pedal to the metal and 45 to 50 mph in 4th gear.  Going down, if its a 6% grade, we down shift to 4th gear and let the Pac Brake hold to about 45 or 50 mph, with very little use of the brakes.  We arrived in Butte, Mt about 3:30, and got situated in the 2 Bar Lazy H Campground.  Not a great place but easy to get into. The sites are a little tight. They have a very nice office, and I was able to use the phone connection to get the previous journals uploaded. 

After we got parked Mac mentioned that he had a tire getting low.  We discussed that we could air it up with my on board compressor.  He was gonna change it himself and get it fixed in the morning.  He came down to the office where I was working on the computer to ask about near by tire service.  I said "Mac, why don't you just call your Good Sam Road Service, its free".  He left the office while I continued working on the computer.  As I came outside, there was the Tire Company, changing the tire.  I found out later that Lena and Donna had already told him to do that.  I guess it just takes a "Man's Advice".  Since tonite was gonna be MY nite to win at Phase 10, Donna decided that we would skip playing tonite.  So, instead she baked a great Lemon Cake. Ain't she sweet !!

Tuesday, May 20, 2003

We left the campground at Butte about 6am, even earlier today than we normally would.  Very anxious to get to the Foretravel Service Center as early as possible.  Travel was on I-90 all the way, lots of mountain driving, but not many real steep grades. Some very beautiful scenery.  Mostly along several rivers and also lots of small little lakes and even a couple of big ones, with many Canadian Geese, some with little bitty babies.   It really got cold last nite, was 28 degrees when Donna & I got up about 5.  Mac told Donna later that "he was so cold that he stuck his finger in his eye to see if it was him or a block of ice."  The elevation at Butte was 5600 ft, contributing to the low temps.  Only about 2000 ft here in Liberty Lake, so the temp was very mild today, short sleeves.  We arrived at Foretravel about 11am.  We made the 300 miles drive in right about 6 hours.  For those of you counting, we gained an hour because of the time change to Pacific Time from Mountain Time.  (Course Mac and Lena are still on Texas Time).

The Foretravel folks here were really great!  Keith, the service manager had a tech working on the problem within an hour.  We met a couple of the sales guys (Bob and Ernie) who were very friendly and helpful.   Bob is very familiar with Alberta, Canada and gave us some excellent advice on how to get back on our route, and what to see on the way.  Well, we got some good news and some bad news.  The main problem, which was the Inverter/Converter/Charger, was very simple to determine the problem - a $5 fuse.  But was a couple hours labor to remove the Inverter, replace the fuse, and re-install the fuse.  The Instant Hot Water dispenser was also blown and replaced, not a major cost either, however.  Total bill for the above was only $299.03.  The bad news was that the rear A/C was also definitely blown. Two options were to replace the A/C with a brand new unit (about $1,000 or replace the entire control system with a conversion system, since the original control system is no longer available (about $700 to $800).  Since the dealership had neither one in stock and would be at least two days to get either one here, we decided to defer repair until we get back. 

So, we are parked tonite in one of Foretravel's FREE hookup sites right here at the dealership.  Since it was my night to cook, Donna and I drove over to Post Falls, Idaho (about 5 miles) and had an excellent dinner at the Hot Rod Cafe, a really neat theme restaurant.  We will depart here tomorrow, but Donna let everybody know that we are NOT leaving at 6am.. maybe by 8, she said.  We will be in Canada sometime tomorrow afternoon, and are not sure about the opportunities to get on line through AOL. So it may be several days before we can publish the journal to the internet.  We will keep it up to date as we go, but will be able to publish only occasionally. No Phase 10 tonite.

Wednesday, May 21,2003

We actually kinda slept in this morning, didn't get rolling until 8:30 Mtn Time, although it was only 7:30 Pacific Time.  Since plans for today were to be back in Mountain Time, I just left my watch on Mountain Time.  After un-hooking from power at Foretravel, we dumped at their courtesy dump, hooked up the truck, and headed for the freeway.  I made a wrong turn, took about a 15 minute detour to get back on track, and headed back east on I-90.  Post Falls is the first town in Idaho from Liberty Lake, a real nice town with lots of new development.  The guy at the tire store told Mac yesterday that it was the fastest growing city in the region.  Was then only about 15 miles to Coeur d'Alene, where we turned north on US 95 toward Canada.  Crossed the Pend Oreille River and a large lake near Sandpoint, Idaho.  At Bonner's Ferry we crossed the Kootenai River and drove along the Kootenai Wildlife Refuge.

Only a few more miles then to the Canadian Border, a location called Eastport.  Very small area, very limited facilities, and practically no traffic. We stopped at the designated spot, the Canadian Customs lady came out, stepped just inside the door, asked a few questions, looked at our birth certificates, asked if we both had driver's license, asked if we had certain fruits.  She also made sure that we had no firearms, since we were from Texas.  Then she bid us a safe journey and enjoy Canada.  We actually crossed into British Columbia, although we were headed to Alberta.  We stopped in Cranbrook at a couple of large RV supply stores, hoping to purchase a 50 Amp Surge Protector. (Sure wish we would have had one back in Guthrie.)  Then on to Jaffray, Elko, Sparwood, and across Crowsnest Pass into Alberta. At one point we went through a short little tunnel, Donna was driving, and we met an 18 wheeler right in the middle.  Donna sure took a deep breath, but handled it like a pro. We are staying in Blairmore tonite at Lost Lemon RV.  Full Hook-ups for $25.00 Cn ($15.00 US).   We are parked right along a pretty little river. There is a railroad right across the river, but only two trains have been by since we got here about 4 hours ago.  Plans for tomorrow are to continue on to Banff, possibility going to "Head Smashed in Buffalo Jump" near Fort MacLeod. This is a well preserved location (one of many) where the Indians would run the Buffalo over a cliff, then collect the carcass.  Oh, by the way, Mac and I beat Lena and Donna at 42 tonite.  Totally skunked them the first two games (7-0, 7,0), then kinda sloughed off and threw the third game to them, 7-5.  Mac got caught with the Widow putting the dominoes back in the box.

Thursday, May 22, 2003

After fueling up we went back to Blairmore, met Mac and Lena, hooked up the truck and continued west.  Not far from the Crowsnest area we turned north on highway 22, The Cowboy Trail. This stretch was ALL ranch land, and BIG ranches.  At one point, we passed by about 2 miles of fences with gimme caps nailed to the top of the fence posts.  Our first stop was in a little place named Longview, not much more than a wide spot in the road.  We visited with the lady in the store, who happened to be the local historian for the area.  She said that ranch land in the area was selling for $3000 / acre.  I guess she knew what she was talking about.  We want to take Highway 40 from here toward Banff, but she told us that it won't open till 6/16, because of preservation of the wildlife.  While we were visiting with the lady in the store, a "real cowboy" stopped for a coke or something, left his truck and trailer out of gear, and it starting rolling.  Donna kidded him about it, and it kinda got off with him.  On to Black Diamond, Ab. to get some money exchanged at a bank.  We got there right before 10, banks open at 10.  Exchanged some money at $1.3346.  Later I saw rates at money exchange in mall at Banff where they would sell US Dollars at $1.39 or buy at $1.325.

When we arrived in Banff, we parked in remote RV park and ride lot, which was quite a distance out.  About the time we parked, a guy in an old car showed up, parked close by and starting polishing his beat up old car with bondo places, and black spray paint in various spots.  We drove back twice, seemed real suspicious, so the third time we went back, Mac stayed.  Mac told us when we got back that the guy left within 5 minutes of him coming back.

 Donna, Lena and I, shopped downtown; Donna and Lena bought a couple of gifts, prices were actually very good, we thought. 

Upon arrival at Lake Louise, we un-hooked in the parking lot, because a sign said narrow mountain road and large vehicles would be dangerous. Also indicated there was limited parking, so we drove pick-up to Lake.  Road was not bad at all, and lots of parking, would have been no problem.  Lake Louise was still mostly frozen.

This is a beautiful lake, emerald green when thawed. The lake is supplied with run-off from a glacier.  Technically only registered guest are allowed in the hotel, one must have a key to enter. So naturally I tried the door, was not locked, we just slipped right into the hotel.  We walked through main halls and commercial areas, and very expensive gift shops. Fairmont, I guess, is building an expansion across from the old hotel.

 

 

Mac and Lena with the sign for the Chateau Lake Louise.

 

We left Lake Louise about 5:30, then up 93 toward Jasper, in Jasper National Park.  Park entrance guy said would be 3 hours, but it took us 4 hours with stops for sights and pictures.  Mostly easy mountain driving for first 1 1/2 hours then the hard climb to the top of the pass, and I mean long and hard.

At one point, while Donna was picking on Mac (on the FRS radio) by telling him to look back into the valley where we just came from, I decided to take a pull-out (overlook parking next to sharp drop off, on Donna's side).  She looked up and saw me headed for the edge and didn't see the pull-out. She almost died. LOL.

Just past the summit was the Columbia Ice Field Information Center, where one can take a ride up onto a Glacier in a huge bus-type vehicle, with 6 wheel drive, and tires as tall as a tall person. The down-hill run into Jasper was very gradual, about 30 miles of great views and easy driving.  Starting about 8:40 we saw our first Elk, a young bull with horns still in velvet. Over the next 30 miles we counted 30 Elk and probably saw even more deer.  Donna wanted to see a bear, but it didn't happen.  We are staying at Whistler campground, a part of their national park system.  It is very wooded, but very nice, with 781 sites, maybe 1/2 full, and very well run.  Fairly easy sites in the pull through section.  We found fresh Elk dropping by Mac and Lena's picnic table.  We got a fire permit, and started a fire.  The wood was too large, and the fire was not very successful.  We then started our usual 42 game, but it got cold and windy, so we played only 2 games.. Ladies won first 7-5, Men won second, 7-2Again Mac got caught with the Widow

Friday, May 23, 2003

We left the Whistler campground about 7am.  Stopped on the way out of the park and called the office.  All is ok, don't miss us a bit.  I also called AOL to try to get Global Aol to enable connection from Canada, but was informed that I must be a customer for 60 days, and I have only been with AOL about 30 days.  Actually, I got 6 month free service with the new laptop that I bought from Dell.  Otherwise, I would never have even considered AOL.  I am not sure how I am gonna get connected, but I think I will be able to in Alaska when we get to Anchorage.  Maybe I will figure out some way to get everything uploaded to the site.  We then drove on into Jasper and drove around Jasper to see a few sights.  Continuing on to the northwest, out of Jasper National Park and about 8.15am we stopped at Mt Robson visitor center. There we met met two brothers from Texas.  One was from Uvalde (David), the other from Austin.  David had lived in Livingston at the same time as Mac and Lena did, but for only one year.  Although they weren't acquainted back then, the had lots in common to talk about.  At 10:10 we hit 3000 miles for the trip so far.  At about 11:15 I think I spotted a black bear.  But at 11:45 Donna for sure had a bear sighting.  Over the course of the day, Donna spotted several more bears.  At about 12:30 we arrived in Prince George, checked at an RV store for Surge Protector.  Mac found a place where they were dressing monkeys and dogs, so he said. We later saw a delivery truck that had Monkey ?? on the side. We left Prince George, crossing the river on an OLD 1-lane wooden floor bridge.  Not sure what the support was, and not sure I want to know! 

Stopped at a little town named Grizzly to get fuel. The guy that owed it came running out saying he was out of diesel. So we kept on going (fortunately).   Just a little further down the road we stopped at a little country store called Windy Point, which turned out to be a real pleasure.  The place is owned and operated by a young couple from Holland.  He was not there when we arrived, and his wife was running the show all by her self.  She was also 8.9 months pregnant, and had two little girls, ages 4 and 6.  They only had 1 diesel pump, and it was a very slow pump.  Took 20-25 minutes to pump 80 gallons into the coach, and then we had to pump 80 or so into Mac's truck.

She stood by while pumping into the coach insisting their place was a Full Service operation.  Mac and I had a long talk with her, while Donna and Lena were in the store talking to her young daughter.  Mac kept trying to get something free, more than a coke or coffee, like back in Colorado. LOL  After noting the amount of our purchase, she allowed Mac to pump his own, and returned to the store, with Donna & I to collect for our purchase.  We continued to talk while Mac was doing his pumping. They have been in Canada only 7 months, bought the business, a store, restaurant, trailer park, and logging camp.  She told us that when they arrived the 6 yr old knew no English, but can now read and speak English like any other kid. They speak Dutch at home, and so do the kids. They want the kids to continue to know their native language.  She said that when the kids talk to her or her husband they speak Dutch, but to anyone else they speak English.  After Mac came into the store to pay, I asked her the price on the wood bundles they had for sale.  She said: "I am gonna give you one, just because of him", nodding toward Mac.  During our continued drive to Chetwynd we continue to see an occasional bear, totaling at least 8 or 10 that we saw during today's drive.

We are now in Chetwynd, a small town of 3500 folks, and lots of "Chain-Saw Carved" statues around town, over 45, so they say. We plan to do a little driving and take some photos of the Chain Saw Carvings, maybe even find one of the many carvers.

Sign as we enter said: " All who hate speeding tickets, please raise your right foot. "  Staying at Westwind RV Park, just north of town.  Normal prices here are $21.50 Cn, but their laundry room is broke, which was no matter to us, so they discounted the rate by 25%.  That made it something like $16.25 Cn or so. As we paid with CASH, the lady said: "Ok, for cash, it's only $15.00 Cn. That converts to $11.27 USA.   I was checking in, Donna and Mac unhooked the truck, and Opps.. the battery was dead. We jumped it off with Mac's truck and kept it running for a while.  I then plugged it up to my charger and will let it charge it all nite.  The ladies won at 42 tonite (2-1). Donna go the Widow tonite.  Right now as I am writing this it's about 11pm and its just now barely dusky dark.

Saturday, May 24, 2003

We were up about 6:30 this morning, and about 8 o'clock we all loaded in the truck and drove into the town of Chetwynd.  We wanted to take some pictures of the various Chain Saw Carving statues. There are 40 to 45 carvings around town, and we visited several of the ones in the main area.  Back to the campground and left about 9am for Dawson Creek, about 50 miles away.

As I mentioned before, Dawson Creek is Mile 0 of the Alaska Highway.  We were lucky to find a big parking lot right across the street from the Mile 0 marker and also the location of an Art Gallery and Museum. The Art Gallery also had a display of photos from the construction of the highway. 

The Welcome Center and Museum were located next door.  Several helpful ladies working there to answer questions, and help with information. The museum had some very interesting artifacts, wildlife exhibits, and Alaska Highway information, including an interesting video.  Donna left the museum ahead of me and was approached by a young lady asking for permission to ask her some survey questions. Donna told her that her husband would be out shortly.. he would be the old gray headed guy with a pony tail. Sure enough, she recognized me immediately (I wonder why).

Very nice young lady working the summer for their tourist bureau, and going to school in Vancouver next year.  She asked several questions about our plans, our destination, how much we had spent the day before, how were we traveling, etc. When I told here we were traveling in a motorhome, she asked if we were on an organized tour.

I told her, "Nope, we were on a Dis-Organized Tour and I am the Disorganized Tour Director".  

 

 

 

  Of course Donna and I had to have our pictures take at the Mile 0 marker for the World Famous Alaska Highway

Next stop after leaving the Welcome Center, was the Walter Wright Pioneer Village, a display of old homes, churches, and school buildings that had been moved from their original location and restored. They also were supposed to have some beautiful gardens, but we were too early in the season. 

We stopped at The Honey Place on up the road, not all that impressive. They did have a glass bee-hive with a tube running to the outside for the bees to enter and exit.  Kinda interesting to watch them work. 

At about 4:30 this afternoon we hit 3500 miles on the trip thus far.  About 10 minutes later, at the bottom of a 9% downhill grade, we stopped on the banks of the Skikanni River and the Skikanni River RV Park (wonder where they got the name?).  At this moment, we are sitting in the coach, right on the banks of the river, listening to the river roll over the rocks, and a light rain pecking on the roof of the coach.  This is a rather primitive place, no electricity service here, so they supply electricity to the campers with a couple of generators.  Cost was not bad however, only $17.00 Cn.  We had a short 42 game tonite.  We finished the first game, the ladies won 7-2.  Just as we were about to start the second game, a few drops of rain, so we played the 'Box" game. Tonite was MY time to get caught with the Widow.  Shortly thereafter it quit, so we resumed game 2, but it started threatening again with the guys ahead 2-1.  Again we put the dominoes back in the box, and again I got caught with the "Widow".  I drew it to start with and nobody ever drew it from my hand.